The Cult of a “Designer” The Question of Classicism of Contemporary FADS

“Classic” is a term that defines itself and presumably, there isn’t a word that could match the essence of what it is. A subject that is considered to be existent in the minds of individuals over long periods of time, without its opinion being deterred contributes to what is deemed as “Classic”.

Although, what’s a world without differing ideas? It’s funny to think or even imagine following a trend that our ancestors followed time and again. Similarly, we as creative beings face the ever growing debate of what makes us different from our past.

The early 1800’s brought us simple Grecian drapery and simple bodices, which later took its time to allow the inclusion of shape to these silhouettes. By the time, we arrived to the end of the century; we saw the growth in what we know as Victorian and Gothic fashion. This fashion era was identified with small waists, bustle skirts, corsets and parasols etc. It was only in the 1900’s that we began to see the evolution of Parisian Haute Couture. At this point of fashion was when the designer world was taken by storm by the likes of Chanel, Balenciaga and Dior, close to period of the First World War.

Here is where one must observe, the accurate use of the word “classic”. Contemporary defines a subject that is considered modern. Hence, during the 1940’s and 1950’s, the contemporary outlook was identified with Dior’s magnificent use of the female silhouettes and Chanel’s ground breaking introduction to the concept of androgyny. Chanel introduced the Little Black Dress and Balenciaga brought in the semi fit silhouette fitted with round shoulders. This was closely followed by the fashion magnum, Yves Saint Laurent, with his creation of sheer blouses.

Personally, I feel that the 20th century was a very important year in fashion. The reason as to why so, is because, until then fashion was a set of rules that designers were determined to break. We moved from the concept of “constricting” the female body using corsets, dress hoops and such to the “freedom” of bodily movement. Designers were constantly looking for way to bring in revolutionary designs and great minds like Chanel was able to achieve that notion. Straight cut silhouettes sans darts, dropped hemlines and bar suits were the rage.

The 1940’s brought change from a style that was blindly followed. Also, it is because of this drastic change that has created the difference in opinion. Whatever designs that followed the change were merely its variations. Hence, the “Classic” standard was duly set.

Later in the following years, fashion sought yet another mind blowing introduction to Mary Quant, bringing in the infamous miniskirt, psychedelic prints, go-go boots and such. A period where art and design found common ground evolved and later brought in other designers such as Donna Karan and Ralph Lauren. This eventually shifted to a prêt a porter scenario.

Although, fashion was at its peak during this time, the one to begin the ball rolling were brands like Chanel and Dior. They became CLASSIC. The miniskirt is the CLASSIC fashion of the Quant period. Straight cuts, pencil skirts and A line silhouettes are CLASSIC styles in designer wear.

This being the base of my argument as to why I would like to believe that in today’s world of fashion, primarily in a women’s point of view, the designer cult is something that is left over from the eras prior to the one we currently co-exist in. Even today, Chanel, Dior and other designers such as Pierre Cardin, Mary Quant etc, hold a strong foundation with their bold fashion movements. Although, their use of materials and surface patterning may change, they are seen to be undeterred from their basic design sensibility that was established in the 20th century.

Of course, there were many revolutionary fashion ideas that followed. The eccentric minds of Alexander McQueen and John Galliano were game changing. Although, it still can be proved that at the beginning of their respective careers, they worked under the minds of Givenchy and Dior. One has to think, that their very first platforms used to express themselves were offered by the infamous brand labels.

In retrospect, it is vital to acknowledge today’s minds that are behind contemporary fashion. I wouldn’t say their style is very relevant to the past. In fact, some have managed to create a name for themselves, for example designers such as Jean Paul Gaultier, Alexander Wang and Olivier Rousteing by creating revolutionary designs. At present, we can see that architecture plays an inspiring role in fashion, where silhouettes are more constructed. These minds have moved away from their positions in famous brands such as Balmain and H&M to create a niche of their own.

Fortunately, we, as spectators, see new things everyday and fashion never stays in one place. This means we have more variety to choose from, but every designer has their version of a Little Black Dress and their approach to an androgynous look. Fashion was merely a child to Chanel that was fed to grow whereas now, the paradigm has shifted for our designer cult and it still thrives to follow the standards set by those classic brands and perhaps they must work to surpass it. Until then, we still face the greatness of design of what is left over from the marvelous era that was the 20th century.